Hilliard’s Unknown Man and the Fire Meant for Two

Nicholas Hilliard (1547–1619), Portrait Miniature of an Unknown Man (An Unknown Man against a Background of Flames), ca. 1600, Watercolour on vellum laid on card, 66 × 51.5 mm, Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Attribution in the early English miniature is seldom settled for long, since the leading limners worked at the same scale and within the same narrow conventions, and this portrait of a man standing in fire has passed between two of them within a single lifetime of scholarship. It entered the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1917 as a work of Isaac Oliver (c.1565–1617), was reassigned to Nicholas Hilliard (1547–1619) in 1943, returned to Oliver in the 1983 catalogue Artists of the Tudor Court (Strong, 1983), and has stood under Hilliard’s name in the publications that followed.  A second burning man keeps the comparison alive, Oliver’s A Man Consumed by Flames at Ham House in London painted around 1610 and set beside the London panel whenever the subject arises, although the debt between the two runs one way only. Oliver was the younger of the pair and had come up as Hilliard’s pupil, and his handling is the more extreme, swallowing the sitter bodily in the blaze and pinning the sense of the image with a motto above the head, Alget qui non ardet, he grows cold who does not burn.  Hilliard’s man stands clear of the flames and carries no words at all, which leaves him harder to read.

What survives every change of label is the craftsmanship, and the craftsmanship belongs to a goldsmith before it belongs to a painter. Hilliard trained first as a goldsmith and carried the jeweller’s methods into watercolour on vellum, laying down burnished real gold for his fine linear work and using metallic pigments to counterfeit the gems and gold thread of court dress.  The fire here obeys the same hand, worked in gold that gathers and releases the light as the little panel is turned, so that the flames seem to move for anyone who tilts them toward a candle. The artist never secured a salaried place at court and kept a shop in the City of London instead, painting whoever could meet his price,  and his treatise on limning presses the value of speed and of working straight from the sitter, the better to hold a face while its expression is still alive. An image on this scale, small enough to be closed inside a hand, asks to be met at exactly that intimate distance.

The use the object was made for accounts for how little it will finally give up. A limning of this kind was meant to be worn and held, the property of one owner rather than a picture for a public room, and the young man, shown in a state of undress, turns a concealed picture-box toward his heart in a gesture of devotion directed at whoever carried his own likeness in return.  Such things travelled between lovers as private tokens, frequently set into jewelled lockets and kept from common view, so that their sense was clear to a small circle and closed to everyone beyond it.   For this portrait that circle was in all likelihood no wider than two, the person who commissioned it and the person he sent it to, and with the sitter unrecorded and no motto to steady the reading, the understanding they shared has gone out of the world with them. The two things a modern viewer most wants to fix, the face it holds and the charge carried by the fire, are precisely the things the miniature was built to keep for its two readers, and it keeps them yet.

References

Faraday, C. J. (2020) ‘Lively Limning: Presence in Portrait Miniatures and John White’s Images of the New World’, British Art Studies, 17. Available  at: https://britishartstudies.ac.uk/issues/17/lively-limning Accessed: 1 August 2026).

Goldring, E. (2019) Nicholas Hilliard: Life of an Artist. New Haven and London: Yale University Press.

Luke, B. (2021) ‘Hunk of burning love: the naked selfie of the Elizabethan age’, The Art Newspaper, 28 September. Available at: http://www.theartnewspaper.com/news/the-naked-selfie-of-the-elizabethan-age (Accessed: 1 August 2026).

MacLeod, C., MacGibbon, R., Button, V., Coombs, K. and Derbyshire, A. (2019) Elizabethan Treasures: Miniatures by Hilliard and Oliver. London: National Portrait Gallery.

Marr, A. (2020) ‘A Mystery in Miniature: Isaac Oliver, the Virginia Colonists and The Tempest’, Apollo, 3 September. Available at: https://apollo-magazine.com/isaac-oliver-man-consumed-by-flames/ (Accessed: 1 August 2026).

National Trust Collections (n.d.) A Man Consumed by Flames, by Isaac Oliver, c.1610 (NT 1139627), Ham House. Available at: https://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1139627 (Accessed: 1 August 2026).

Strong, R. (1983) Artists of the Tudor Court: The Portrait Miniature Rediscovered 1520–1620. London: Victoria and Albert Museum

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