
For an ambitious Northern painter of the sixteenth century, Rome was an essential destination, and the drawings brought back from it could sustain a career for decades. Maerten van Heemskerck’s career exemplified this. In 1553, some seventeen years after leaving the city, he painted his self-portrait, depicting himself twice. His face dominates the foreground: an imposing man in a plain black tunic, aged 55, who is looking directly at the viewer, as indicated by the painted label. Behind him, a much smaller figure, bearded like the first and clearly the same man in his youth, sits on a block of stone, drawing the Colosseum with an inkpot and quill in hand and a sketchbook resting on an easel. Both the young draughtsman and the ruin are memories, meticulously rendered in Haarlem from the drawings Heemskerck had brought back home.
He spent approximately four years in Rome, from 1532 to 1536 or 1537, filling sketchbooks with the city’s ruins and antiquities. He never returned, and for the remainder of his life, his paintings and prints drew steadily on what he had sketched there, so much so that other Haarlem artists were still utilising his sheets a generation later. This self-portrait serves as his acknowledgement of that enduring influence. At the height of his career, what he chose to place at the centre of the picture was the act of drawing Rome.
Heemskerck had previously cast himself as the guiding intellect of a work. In St Luke Painting the Virgin (1532; Frans Hals Museum, Haarlem), which he presented to the Haarlem painters’ guild just before his journey to Italy, the figure steadying the evangelist’s hand is generally understood to be Heemskerck himself – the mind behind the work rather than the hand executing it (Veldman, 1977). His biographer Karel van Mander (1548–1606) would later state that Heemskerck had ‘filled the world with his inventions’ (Van Mander, 1604, fol. 246v). This portrait with the Colosseum presents a more subtle version of this claim, concealing its mechanism in plain sight. The signature is on a small painted label whose lower corner disappears behind the sitter’s tunic, an overlap that reveals the scene behind him to be a picture in its own right (DiFuria, 2010). It suggests he is not standing in a Roman landscape but rather in front of a painting of himself drawing one.
The timing probably explains such emphasis. By the early 1550s, Rome’s ruins were suddenly ubiquitous in print. Around 1550, the Antwerp publisher Hieronymus Cock (c. 1518–1570) released a popular series of about twenty-five etched Roman views, Praecipua aliquot Romanae antiquitatis ruinarum monimenta [Some of the principal monuments of the ruins of Roman antiquity]. The extent of Cock’s debt to Heemskerck is still debated. No plate directly copies one of Heemskerck’s drawings, and the few surviving preparatory sheets are Cock’s own; however, Heemskerck possessed by far the largest collection of Roman views available, and scholarship generally agrees that his work underpinned the series, even where it was not the direct model (DiFuria, 2010). Some of Cock’s prints even feature a small figure seated among the ruins and drawing, the same motif Heemskerck uses for his younger self. In both instances, the drawing figure makes a clear point: what the viewer sees was observed and recorded on the spot. The self-portrait personalises this point, presenting Heemskerck as the eyewitness from whom the record originated.
The frontispiece of his 1569 print series Clades Judaeae Gentis [The disasters of the Jewish nation] pairs a bust of him with a younger self drawing ruins, presenting the entire series as the work of a man who had seen Rome. By then, his name had spread far beyond Haarlem, reaching as far as Vasari’s Lives (Vasari, 1568). The Colosseum self-portrait consolidates all of this into a single panel. Ultimately, it is less about the ruin behind the man than about the man in front of it – the draughtsman who had drawn Rome and wished that record to be remembered as his own.





References
DiFuria, A.J. (2010) ‘Remembering the Eternal in 1553: Maerten van Heemskerck’s Self-portrait before the Colosseum‘, in Chapman, H.P. and Woodall, J. (eds.) Envisioning the Artist in the Early Modern Netherlands (Nederlands Kunsthistorisch Jaarboek, 59, 2009–2010). Zwolle: Waanders, pp. 91–109.Available at : https://www.academia.edu/4159518/Remembering_the_Eternal_in_1553_Maerten_van_Heemskercks_Self_Portrait_Before_the_Colosseum (Accessed 10 August 2026).
DiFuria, A.J. (2012) ‘The Eternal Eye. Memory, Vision and Topography in Maarten van Heemskerck’s Roman Ruin Vedute‘, in Bartsch, T. and Seiler, P. (eds.) Rom zeichnen: Maarten van Heemskerck 1532–1536/37 [Drawing Rome: Maarten van Heemskerck 1532–1536/37]. Berlin: Deutscher Verlag für Kunstwissenschaft, pp. 157–169. Available at : https://www.academia.edu/4159211/The_Eternal_Eye_Memory_Vision_and_Topography_in_Maarten_van_Heemskercks_Ruin_Vedute_ (Accessed 08 Augsut 2026).
DiFuria, A.J. (2019) Maarten van Heemskerck’s Rome. Antiquity, Memory, and the Cult of Ruins. Leiden and Boston: Brill
Gerson, H. and Goodison, J.W. (1960) Catalogue of Paintings in the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge. Volume I: Dutch, Flemish, German and Spanish. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press
Riggs, T.A. (1977) Hieronymus Cock: Printmaker and Publisher. New York: Garland
Van der Coelen, P. (2012) ‘Maarten van Heemskercks “Zelfportret met het Colosseum”: context en voorbeelden’ [Maarten van Heemskerck’s ‘Self-Portrait with the Colosseum’: context and models], in Face Book: Studies on Dutch and Flemish Portraiture of the 16th–18th Centuries. Liber Amicorum Presented to Rudolf E.O. Ekkart. Leiden and The Hague, pp. 55–62. Available at : https://www.academia.edu/30531534/Maarten_van_Heemskercks_Zelfportret_met_het_Colosseum_context_en_voorbeelden_in_Face_Book_Studies_on_Dutch_and_Flemish_Portraiture_of_the_16th_18th_Centuries_Liber_Amicorum_Presented_to_Rudolf_E_O_Ekkart_on_the_Occasion_of_his_65th_Birthday_Leiden_The_Hague_2012_pp_55_62 (Accesed 08 Augsut 2026).
Van Mander, K. (1604) ‘Het leven van Marten Hemskerck, constigh vermaert Schilder’ [The life of Marten Heemskerck, skilfully renowned painter], in Het Schilder-boeck [The Book on Painting]. Haarlem: Paschier van Wesbusch, fols. 244v–247r. Available at: https://www.dbnl.org/tekst/mand001schi01_01/mand001schi01_01_0227.php (Accessed: 8 August 2026).
Van Mander, K. (1936) Dutch and Flemish Painters. Translated from the Schilder-boeck by C. van de Wall. New York: McFarlane, Warde, McFarlane. Available at: https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/000571845 (Accessed: 8 August 2026).
Veldman, I.M. (1977) Maarten van Heemskerck and Dutch Humanism in the Sixteenth Century, trans. M. Hoyle. Maarssen: Gary Schwartz
















































